Part 5.
Wine bottles:
- A really in-scale 144 scale wine bottle is so tiny, you might just inhale it if you aren't careful! I got the best results with the tips of round toothpicks.
- The bottle should not be taller than 3mm (which is already a huge bottle), and definitely not wider than 1mm.
- Take a needle file, emery board, thin dowel covered with sandpaper, anything that feels comfortable in your hand, and start shaping your bottle.
- Start at the tip. Round the tip, and then start shaping the neck of the bottle. The sides should be straight. Don’t cut it down yet.
- A really in-scale 144 scale wine bottle is so tiny, you might just inhale it if you aren't careful! I got the best results with the tips of round toothpicks.
- The bottle should not be taller than 3mm (which is already a huge bottle), and definitely not wider than 1mm.
- Take a needle file, emery board, thin dowel covered with sandpaper, anything that feels comfortable in your hand, and start shaping your bottle.
- Start at the tip. Round the tip, and then start shaping the neck of the bottle. The sides should be straight. Don’t cut it down yet.
- Paint the tip with white acrylic paint.
- Dip the painted tip into glass paint, hold upside down to get rid of the surplus glass paint, then stick the toothpick into something to dry.
- With the gold gel pen, dot the top of the bottle, and draw a line on the front for the label.
- Dip the painted tip into glass paint, hold upside down to get rid of the surplus glass paint, then stick the toothpick into something to dry.
- With the gold gel pen, dot the top of the bottle, and draw a line on the front for the label.
- Measure and cut down with your craft knife.
- Check that the bottom is flat, and glue into the shelves.
- Check that the bottom is flat, and glue into the shelves.
Finishing touches:
- Cover the outside of the box with thin textured paper (I used the same paper that I used for the floor tiles)
- Glue a square of transparent packaging material to the top of the box. That will allow light from above to light up the scene.
- Cut a frame with mitered corners from thin 3mm wide wood strip. The frame should cover the front edges of the box. Remember that the left side wall is thicker than the rest because of the double layer. The wood strip should cover it from side to side. I have made the frame flush with the outside of the box on the right (so it will overlap a bit to the inside), and flush with the inside of the box at the floor (so it will overlap a bit to the outside of the box). I added 4 tiny wooden beads to the bottom, to elevate the box and allow for the overlap of the frame. At the top edge you should just cover the front edge of the plastic roof.
- Cover the outside of the box with thin textured paper (I used the same paper that I used for the floor tiles)
- Glue a square of transparent packaging material to the top of the box. That will allow light from above to light up the scene.
- Cut a frame with mitered corners from thin 3mm wide wood strip. The frame should cover the front edges of the box. Remember that the left side wall is thicker than the rest because of the double layer. The wood strip should cover it from side to side. I have made the frame flush with the outside of the box on the right (so it will overlap a bit to the inside), and flush with the inside of the box at the floor (so it will overlap a bit to the outside of the box). I added 4 tiny wooden beads to the bottom, to elevate the box and allow for the overlap of the frame. At the top edge you should just cover the front edge of the plastic roof.